grapez wicked good wine #4Banfi Col di Sasso

So I have this theory about French and Italian wines that has no basis except in my own experience, and that admittedly is limited. But it’s been working well for me. Generally speaking, because there will always be exceptions to this rule, I find that you can purchase a French or Italian wine for half the price of a comparable quality West Coast wine.

First, let me fine-tune the economics of wine as I see them:

1. You cannot buy a decent bottle of wine with a screw-top or in a box. This should go without saying, like Lewis Carroll’s “begin at the beginning”, but one has to build a foundation nonetheless, and this is mine.

2. I call this next one Lucciano’s Law and I quote: “You should never spend more than ten dollars for a bottle of wine. Anything above that is strictly marketing.” I met Lucciano at a wedding a few years ago. He brought a large jug of his homemade wine, a blend of Sangiovese and some other grape that I no longer remember. Our table had a couple of bottles of a nice Greg Norman Shiraz to share amongst its party. I had one glass. But I had several glasses of Lucciano’s fortunate blend. I’m not a dancer but that night I frequented the dance floor more often than any other man there. Beverly had no idea. But before I leave this rule, let me say I've been known to occasionally cheat on this one. So my corollary is this: you can spend five dollars for marketing if it tastes good. And fifteen, if it’s the Ruffino Riserva Ducale.

3. The third rule is a variation on the theory posted above: when in doubt, buy French or Italian. Or a well-rated Spanish.

Now why this anti-American bias in a world of Liberty Fries? Well, let me first say that I have never drank a drop of Iraqi, Iranian, or North Korean wine. So I've avoided the axis of evil nicely. Second my ancestry is French, so there. And lastly, Beverly is Italian, so what would you have me do?

But I’ve been digressing for some time now and it’s time for me to offer my rationale behind this economical (in more ways than one) hypothesis in three simple words: old grape vines. Like old money, the vines are more sophisticated in their growth and the grapes exquisite in their taste.

And that brings me to the “grapez wicked good wine” for this week: Banfi Col Di Sasso. The first time I purchased a bottle, I thought I was slumming a bit because the sale price was $5.99, and an unsaid rule that should be a corollary for either rule one or two above is to never pay less than five dollars for a bottle of wine. This was dangerously close to that line.

I was pleasantly surprised. And each time I’ve purchased a bottle, usually after an interval from the last time, and my memory being not as keen as it once was (and it was never really that keen except on baseball stats and random items I didn’t even know I knew) I was again pleasantly surprised. Until I finally realized, this Col di Sasso is one damned excellent wine.

Now for a primer. Stay with me here (I’ve been sipping a glass of this wine as I write this and I’m near the bottom of the glass) while I chalk out a formula:

-if a bottle of Col di Sasso costs on a normal day $7.99,

-and if, because Banfi is a large Italian winery and can afford to discount their low-cost wine as a loss leader for their more expensive offerings, the wine in question is discounted (which I believe is worth two dollars in the scheme of things,)

-and if, as I firmly believe, like religion, with unwavering faith, that an Italian wine sells for one-half that of a comparable West Coast wine

-and if, you, like me, are able to purchase the wine on sale for two dollars off the everyday price,

-then you have just purchased a twenty dollar wine for six bucks!

-but, in this case, the Banfi is very very good, so add another five on for the blackberry flavor with a hint of spice and chocolate, and a nice trace of oak.

The answer is: $6 for a $25 comparable West Coast wine. I’d be dancing in the streets, except I hear Lucciano saying, that's about right.

From the Banfi website (remember it’s the marketing):

Col-di-Sasso, which translates to "Stony Hill," is a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes cultivated on the most rocky and impervious slopes of the Banfi estate in Montalcino, Tuscany.

Typically harvested in early October, each grape variety is vinified separately. The Sangiovese imparts body, while stainless steel aged Cabernet Sauvignon adds fruit and structure.

But I’d like to add that this Super Tuscany is a great taste at a super price. I was accused in the comments section here of being an elitist because I reviewed wines. Well, whatever, but my whole point in writing these wine postings is to break that elitist mold and enjoy, for a Sam Adams six-pack price, some great wines. Look, it’s medically proven that red wine is good for the heart in more ways than one.

Let us have wine and women
mirth and laughter,
Sermons and soda-water the day after.
— Lord Byron
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Previous grapez wicked good wines:
gwgw #3: Las Rocas de San Alejandro Garnacha 2002
gwgw #2: Columbia Crest 'Grand Estates' Merlot
gwgw #1: Monte Antico